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A Week in the Scottish Highlands: The Ultimate Itinerary

April 22, 2023 By James Wilson Destinations 12 min read

The Scottish Highlands encompass some of Britain's most awe-inspiring landscapes: mist-shrouded mountains, glassy lochs, ancient forests, and dramatic coastlines. For centuries, this rugged wilderness has captivated travelers, offering not just spectacular scenery but also a rich tapestry of history, culture, and folklore. As Highland natives ourselves, we've crafted this seven-day itinerary to help you experience the essence of this magical region, balancing iconic landmarks with hidden treasures that many visitors overlook.

When to Visit the Highlands

Before delving into the itinerary, it's worth discussing timing. Each season offers a distinct Highland experience:

  • Summer (June-August): The most popular time with long daylight hours (up to 18 hours), milder temperatures (15-21°C), and optimal conditions for outdoor activities. However, this is also peak tourist season with higher prices and more crowded attractions.
  • Spring (April-May): Offers blooming landscapes, emerging wildlife, and fewer crowds. Weather can be unpredictable, but May often brings lovely conditions.
  • Autumn (September-October): Perhaps the most visually stunning season as the landscape transforms into a canvas of russet, gold, and bronze. Wildlife is active, and tourist numbers drop significantly.
  • Winter (November-March): For the adventurous traveler, winter brings snow-dusted mountains, potential Northern Lights sightings, and a profound sense of solitude. Many attractions have limited hours or close entirely, so research carefully.

This itinerary works best from late spring through autumn, though it can be adapted for winter with appropriate modifications.

Day 1: Edinburgh to Inverness (Gateway to the Highlands)

Begin your Highland adventure by traveling from Edinburgh to Inverness, known as the "Capital of the Highlands." This journey traverses the Highland Boundary Fault—the geological feature that separates the Lowlands from the Highlands—and serves as a perfect introduction to Scotland's changing landscapes.

Morning: Edinburgh Departure

If driving, take the scenic A9 route rather than the faster motorways. Leave Edinburgh early (around 8:00 AM) to allow for stops along the way. For those traveling by train or bus, choose a morning departure to reach Inverness by afternoon.

En Route Stops

  • Dunkeld: This charming historic town features the spectacular ruins of Dunkeld Cathedral set alongside the River Tay. The partial ruin, partial active church provides a fascinating glimpse into Scotland's religious history.
  • Pitlochry: A quintessential Victorian town known for its salmon ladder, whisky distilleries, and the nearby Blair Castle. Stop for lunch at The Old Mill Inn, which serves excellent local fare in a characterful setting.
  • Cairngorms National Park: As you continue north, you'll drive through Britain's largest national park. Consider a short detour to the Highland Wildlife Park near Kingussie to see native Scottish wildlife like red deer and Scottish wildcats.

Afternoon: Arrive in Inverness

Check into your accommodation. We recommend either the historic Glenmoriston Town House Hotel on the banks of the River Ness or, for a more budget-friendly option, the clean and comfortable Premier Inn Inverness Centre.

Evening: Explore Inverness

Take a leisurely stroll along the River Ness, crossing the bouncing pedestrian bridges and enjoying views of Inverness Castle. For dinner, try The Kitchen Brasserie for its seasonal Scottish menu or Rocpool for more upscale dining featuring Highland ingredients.

After dinner, join the Inverness Ghost Walk (bookings essential) for an entertaining introduction to the city's darker history—and the perfect way to stretch your legs after a day of travel.

Day 2: Loch Ness, Urquhart Castle, and the Great Glen

Today focuses on exploring the iconic Loch Ness and its surroundings, including the historic Great Glen—a dramatic valley that slices through the Highlands.

Morning: Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle

After breakfast, drive south to Urquhart Castle (approximately 30 minutes from Inverness). This magnificent medieval ruin sits on a headland jutting into Loch Ness, offering spectacular views. Arrive early (9:30 AM) to beat the coach tours. The visitor center provides fascinating historical context about the castle's turbulent past.

After exploring the castle, take a one-hour cruise on Loch Ness with Jacobite Cruises. While spotting the famous monster might be unlikely, the deep, dark waters and surrounding mountains create an atmosphere of mystery that's captivating regardless.

Lunch: Drumnadrochit

In the nearby village of Drumnadrochit, enjoy lunch at The Loch Ness Inn, which serves hearty Scottish fare using locally sourced ingredients. Their Cullen skink (smoked haddock soup) is particularly good.

Afternoon: Fort Augustus and the Caledonian Canal

Continue south to Fort Augustus, a picturesque village at the southern tip of Loch Ness. Watch boats navigate the impressive staircase of locks on the Caledonian Canal, an engineering marvel that connects Scotland's east and west coasts through the Great Glen. Take a leisurely walk along the canal towpath.

If time permits, drive to nearby Falls of Foyers on the eastern shore of Loch Ness—a 140-foot waterfall that inspired Robert Burns. The short woodland walk to the viewpoint is particularly beautiful in autumn.

Evening: Return to Inverness

Drive back to Inverness via the less-traveled eastern shore of Loch Ness for different perspectives of this famous body of water. For dinner, try MacGregor's Bar for traditional Scottish food and live folk music, offering an authentic taste of Highland culture.

Day 3: Culloden, Clava Cairns, and Highland Whisky

Today delves into the region's dramatic history and Scotland's national drink—whisky.

Morning: Culloden Battlefield

Start your day at Culloden Battlefield, site of the last major battle fought on British soil, where the 1746 conflict effectively ended the Jacobite uprising and transformed Highland culture forever. The excellent visitor center uses immersive techniques to explain the complex historical context, while the moor itself—dotted with clan memorial stones—is a powerfully atmospheric place that deserves respectful exploration.

Late Morning: Clava Cairns

Just a short drive from Culloden lie the Clava Cairns—a remarkably well-preserved Bronze Age cemetery complex dating back about 4,000 years. The stone circles and passage graves are set in a peaceful grove of trees, creating an enchanting atmosphere. These prehistoric monuments have gained additional fame among "Outlander" fans as the inspiration for the fictional Craigh na Dun time-travel stones.

Lunch: Cawdor

Drive to the charming village of Cawdor for lunch at the Cawdor Tavern, a cozy establishment serving excellent local produce. If time allows, visit nearby Cawdor Castle, a still-inhabited medieval fortress with beautiful gardens that features in Shakespeare's "Macbeth" (though the historical Macbeth never actually set foot there).

Afternoon: Speyside Whisky Experience

No Highland trip is complete without exploring Scotland's whisky heritage. Drive east to Speyside, home to the highest concentration of distilleries in Scotland. Visit the Glenfiddich Distillery in Dufftown, which offers excellent tours even for whisky novices. Their 90-minute "Explorer Tour" explains the whisky-making process from barley to bottle and includes tastings of their core range.

For enthusiasts, consider also visiting The Macallan's architectural marvel of a distillery or the more traditional Glenfarclas, a family-owned operation known for its sherried single malts.

Evening: Dinner at The Dowans Hotel

For a special dinner experience, book a table at The Dowans Hotel in Aberlour. Their restaurant, "57" offers a menu showcasing the best of Scottish produce with modern flair, complemented by an outstanding whisky selection to continue your Speyside education.

Return to Inverness for your final night there.

Day 4: Inverness to Isle of Skye

Today you'll journey through some of Scotland's most iconic landscapes to reach the mystical Isle of Skye.

Morning: Depart Inverness

After checkout, head west on the A82 toward Skye. Your first stop is the picturesque Loch Ness village of Invermoriston to see Thomas Telford's old bridge and the falls on the River Moriston.

Late Morning: Glen Shiel and Eilean Donan Castle

Continue westward through dramatic Glen Shiel, flanked by the mountain range called "The Five Sisters of Kintail." This area offers superb photo opportunities, particularly with morning light on the mountains.

Around lunchtime, reach Scotland's most photographed castle: Eilean Donan. This 13th-century fortress sits on a small tidal island where three sea lochs meet. Explore the fully restored interior rooms before having lunch at the castle's comfortable café with its excellent views.

Afternoon: Crossing to Skye and Exploring Portree

Cross the Skye Bridge to reach the island (no toll required) and proceed to Portree, the island's main town. Its harbourfront with colorful houses makes for a perfect introduction to Skye's charm.

Check into your accommodation. We recommend The Cuillin Hills Hotel for its panoramic views and excellent restaurant, or the more affordable Portree Hotel on the town square.

Spend the remainder of the afternoon exploring Portree's craft shops, art galleries, and harbor. Don't miss Skye Batiks for unique handmade textiles and the Isle of Skye Baking Company for delicious artisanal treats.

Evening: Dinner in Portree

For dinner, try Sea Breezes for excellent locally caught seafood or Dulse & Brose for a more upscale dining experience focusing on island produce.

Day 5: Northern Skye Exploration

Dedicate today to exploring Skye's otherworldly northern peninsula, the Trotternish, with its remarkable geological formations and historic sites.

Morning: The Old Man of Storr

Start early (8:30 AM if possible) to beat the crowds at the Old Man of Storr, one of Scotland's most iconic landscapes. This distinctive rock pinnacle sits amid a dramatic landslip below the Trotternish Ridge. The walk from the car park takes about 45 minutes (each way) and is moderately steep but rewards with spectacular views across to the mainland.

Late Morning: Lealt Falls and Kilt Rock

Continue north to Lealt Falls and the newly constructed viewing platform offering vistas of the dramatic gorge and falls. A short drive further brings you to Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls viewpoint, where a 90-meter waterfall plunges off cliff edges resembling a pleated kilt.

Lunch: The Skye Museum of Island Life

Visit the fascinating Skye Museum of Island Life near Kilmuir, which preserves a traditional Highland village with thatched cottages. The museum café offers simple but tasty lunch options.

Afternoon: Quiraing and Fairy Glen

The Quiraing is perhaps Skye's most spectacular landscape—a landslip that's created a fantasy of pinnacles, hidden plateaus, and rock buttresses. The viewpoint can be appreciated with a short walk from the car park, but the full 4-mile loop trail (2-3 hours) offers the most comprehensive experience. Wear sturdy footwear as paths can be muddy.

Afterward, visit the enchanting Fairy Glen near Uig—a bizarre miniature landscape of conical hills, ponds, and gnarled trees that feels straight from a fairy tale. Unlike many of Skye's attractions, this magical spot is easily accessible with a short walk from the roadside.

Evening: Dinner at The Three Chimneys

If you've made reservations well in advance, dine at The Three Chimneys in Colbost, one of Scotland's most celebrated restaurants showcasing Skye's exceptional seafood and local produce. For a more casual alternative, try The Old School Restaurant in Dunvegan, housed in a converted 19th-century schoolhouse.

Day 6: Skye to Glencoe

Bid farewell to Skye and journey to Glencoe, perhaps Scotland's most atmospheric and historically significant glen.

Morning: Departing Skye via Armadale

After checkout, drive south through the island to Armadale. If time permits, visit the Armadale Castle Gardens and Museum of the Isles to learn about Clan Donald history before catching the ferry to Mallaig on the mainland (advance booking recommended in summer).

Late Morning/Lunch: Road to the Isles

From Mallaig, drive along the stunning "Road to the Isles" (A830). Stop at the Glenfinnan Monument and Visitor Centre, which commemorates the beginning of the 1745 Jacobite Rising. Nearby stands the Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous by the Harry Potter films—walk the short trail for the classic view of the steam train crossing the viaduct (check timetables in advance).

Continue to Fort William for lunch at The Garrison West pub, offering hearty fare with views toward Loch Linnhe.

Afternoon: Journey to Glencoe

The drive from Fort William to Glencoe is short but spectacular. Stop at the Glencoe Visitor Centre to learn about the area's natural and human history, including the infamous 1692 massacre.

Check into your accommodation. The historic Clachaig Inn offers comfortable rooms in the heart of the glen with an excellent pub, while Glencoe House provides luxury suites for a special experience.

Late Afternoon: Glencoe Walks

Depending on your energy levels, choose from several walks in the glen:

  • An Torr: An easy 30-minute forest walk with good views
  • Signal Rock: A moderate 1-hour walk to the rock where the signal was allegedly given to begin the Glencoe Massacre
  • The Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail): A more challenging 2-3 hour hike to a hidden valley where the MacDonalds of Glencoe allegedly hid cattle rustled from neighboring clans

Evening: Dinner in Glencoe

Enjoy dinner at your accommodation or try The Gathering in Glencoe village for excellent Scottish cuisine in a contemporary setting. As dusk falls, the mountains of Glencoe take on a particularly moody aspect—the perfect end to a day of Highland history and landscapes.

Day 7: Glencoe to Edinburgh

Your final day takes you from the Highlands back to Edinburgh, with memorable stops along the way.

Morning: Glencoe to Loch Lomond

After breakfast, drive south across the haunting expanse of Rannoch Moor, one of Britain's last great wildernesses. Continue to the northern shores of Loch Lomond, stopping at the village of Tyndrum for coffee.

Late Morning: Loch Lomond and the Trossachs

Explore Loch Lomond, Britain's largest inland body of water by surface area. At the village of Balmaha, climb Conic Hill (2-3 hours return) for panoramic views across the loch and its islands, or take a gentler walk along the lochside if you prefer.

Lunch: Luss

The conservation village of Luss, with its picturesque stone cottages and jetty offering boat trips, is an ideal lunch stop. The Coach House Coffee Shop serves excellent soups, sandwiches, and home baking.

Afternoon: Stirling Castle

En route to Edinburgh, visit magnificent Stirling Castle, one of Scotland's most historically important fortresses. Allow at least two hours to explore the meticulously restored Royal Palace, Great Hall, and Chapel Royal. The views from the castle esplanade encompass seven historic battlefields, including Bannockburn and Stirling Bridge.

Evening: Return to Edinburgh

Complete your journey back to Edinburgh, arriving by early evening. Reflect on your Highland adventure over dinner at The Scran & Scallie, featuring modern Scottish cuisine, or The Witchery by the Castle for a more atmospheric conclusion to your Highland journey.

Practical Tips for Your Highland Adventure

Transportation

  • Self-driving: Offers maximum flexibility and access to remote areas. Roads are generally good but often narrow and winding. Always allow extra time for journeys.
  • Public transport: The itinerary can be adapted for public transport (trains and buses) but would require careful planning and would miss some more remote locations.
  • Guided tours: If you prefer not to drive, consider private tours that can be customized to your interests.

Accommodation

Book accommodations at least 3-6 months in advance, especially if traveling in summer or during events like the Highland Games.

Weather Preparedness

Highland weather is notoriously changeable. Pack waterproof clothing, layers for warmth, sturdy walking shoes, and sunscreen (yes, even in Scotland).

Midges

These tiny biting insects can be problematic from late May through September, particularly in damp, still conditions at dawn and dusk. Pack insect repellent containing DEET or Picaridin, and consider a midge net for your head if planning extensive outdoor activities.

The Scottish Highlands offer an unparalleled combination of dramatic landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture. This seven-day itinerary provides a comprehensive introduction to the region's highlights while allowing time to absorb the unique atmosphere that makes the Highlands so special.

From the mysterious waters of Loch Ness to the otherworldly landscapes of Skye, from historic battlefields to timeless glens, this journey presents many faces of Highland Scotland. Yet it barely scratches the surface of what this extraordinary region has to offer—which is perhaps the best reason to start planning your return visit even before this one ends.

As we say in Gaelic: "Turas math dhut" — Good journey to you!

James Wilson, Scottish Highlands Expert

About the Author

James Wilson was born and raised in the Scottish Highlands and has spent over 20 years guiding visitors through his homeland. A certified Mountain Leader and local historian, James has an intimate knowledge of Highland landscapes, folklore, and cultural traditions. When not leading tours, he can be found hiking remote glens or sampling new expressions from Scotland's distilleries.

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